Monsieur Moutarde review: our verdict
Cordon bleu, lamb's trotters, apple tart: Monsieur Moutarde's menu reads like that of a Parisian neighbourhood brasserie, and that's exactly what you come here for. No fusion, no nod to current trends, French classics held with rigour and desserts that justify keeping a place.
The room is lively and convivial, especially at lunch, and the service flows without shoving, while knowing how to advise when you're hesitating. Good choice for a business lunch in Gauthier, a dinner with friends, or a late meal, since the kitchen runs until 1 a.m., seven days a week. Less suitable for those seeking inventiveness or a Moroccan table: the house sticks to its repertoire and doesn't stray.
The dish to order: lamb's trotters, or cordon bleu to stay in the bistro register, and apple tart for dessert. The best slot: late evening or Sunday, when the house is still serving and the neighbourhood is slowing down.
